Post by fots2 on May 11, 2014 23:50:24 GMT 8
The Fort Bonifacio Tunnel - Part 2
I have decided to do something a little unusual in this report; I am going to omit detailed history of this tunnel. The reason is simple, not a lot of detail exists and what does exist often conflicts with other sources. For example, tunnel construction is said to have started in 1906, 1910, 1936 and 1941. Take your pick!
Also, I cannot find the source of widely quoted information stating that this tunnel is 2.24km long. It is said to run all the way to Villamor Airbase but a quick look at a map tells me that the Airbase is 4.5km away. Another article tells me that the tunnel goes all the way to Tunasan, Muntinlupa. That is over 18km away. An officer in the US Army Corp of Engineers, Wendell Fertig, oversaw major upgrades to the tunnel in 1941 but some of what he writes does not seem to agree with what I see inside the tunnel.
An example of media saying this tunnel is 2.24km long. (video capture courtesy GMA News TV)
Account of events which took place in 1941 - Wendell Fertig, US Army Corps of Engineers.
I can believe stories of a tunnel from Fort McKinley to the Pasig River, one in the area of Villamor Airbase and even others but talk that they all connect to this tunnel in Fort Bonifacio Global City seems very unlikely. Since I have little confidence in the accuracy of what I read, I won’t quote any more.
What I can show you with 100% certainty is what remains of this tunnel today. To date I have been down there on three occasions for a total of over four hours. Trip #1 was only for about twenty minutes and I did not take any photos. This report details trips #2 and #3.
Since Part #1 was posted, I came into possession of a 1941 document about this tunnel describing an upcoming bomb-proofing project.
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3
Blueprint of the tunnel (color reversed for better clarity)
In the 1990s, a section of this tunnel was open to the public as one of the Philippine Army Museum’s attractions. The museum was located along MacArthur Avenue beside the main tunnel entrance. I have been told that the following sketch was a handout given to people who chose to visit the tunnel.
Fort Bonifacio Tunnel Sketch
The 1941 documents are interesting in that they detail work to be undertaken but what is disappointing is how inaccurate the associated blueprint turned out to be. Usually official Army documents are our best source of information. I have not verified all the details on the 1990s sketch but it is by far the most accurate drawing of the tunnel system that we have. It is not just a matter of the 1990s sketch being more detailed; the blueprint shows rooms and laterals that do not exist. Apparently what the Army built differed from their original plans plus there is also talk that the tunnel was enlarged during the Japanese occupation. The only complaint I have about this sketch is that some proportions are not accurate. (i.e. the length of a lateral when compared to one beside it is not correct in some cases. The general shape is very good though). An exact “as built” plan of the tunnel may not exist and it appears that no one has bothered to create detailed records of what remains today.
Here is the same sketch with some notes added. I would suggest referring to it when viewing the following report. Not all points of interest are included as the sketch would be much more cluttered than it already is. I’ll start from the main entrance and go to East Rembo then cover the rest of the tunnel towards Pembo.
The Tunnel Today:
For some reason, this tunnel is larger than I expected which makes it even more fun. It’s almost like Manila’s version of ancient catacombs. To give you some idea as to the scale we are dealing with here, note the lateral on the sketch between the Amapola St. and Morning Glory St. laterals. Due to wading through water I was taking approximately ¾ sized paces. The number of paces from the main tunnel to the collapse was 190.
In several media videos shot inside the tunnel, the groups never stray far from the central to East Rembo section. Yes, parts of the tunnel towards Pembo are wet but that would not discourage any motivated explorer.
Thanks to Karl for posting his 2012 trip report down there (link). I don’t know why his group was told not to go further due to possible poor air quality. There is an open entrance ahead where fresh air can enter the tunnel unobstructed. Perhaps it was to just contain their explorations.
Construction of Bonifacio Global City including the C5 expressway access roads are all reported to have impacted the integrity of the tunnel. Even more recent urban construction is having an effect in that entrances are being sealed which results in lower passageways being flooded. Proper drainage has been disrupted. If there were other drainage methods then they must be blocked too.
I never noticed drill holes for explosives anywhere. This tunnel was ‘carved’ out of the rock and not blasted. Blasted tunnels are very rough and of random size but this one is smooth rock with squared edges; it looks very professional. In many places chip marks from tools such as chisels and picks are still visible.
Nowhere were there any signs of small arms fire. It appears that no battles took place inside although some areas do look to have been burned at some point in time.
Water ripples you see in many photos were created by us walking through it. With a couple exceptions we noted how clear the water was at least until we stirred up the silt. There is no question that two areas of this tunnel system are being used as a sewer by local residents. I was surprised that there was not much smell though. Maximum water depth in April was a little above waist level.
There are no birds, bats or lizards in the tunnel. Normally this is a bad sign however I did not notice any air quality issues anywhere. The only living creatures I saw inhabit the larger sewer area where hundreds of bugs line the walls and ceiling. They obviously have food to eat and we can guess what that is.
When the first flooded section of tunnel appeared before us, there was no way I was going to quit. The other two guys with me, Roger and Bert, felt the same. I took some valuables from my pockets such as money and IDs and put them in a passport style pouch that goes around my neck. I set a personal water-level threshold of below my knees to keep my rolled-up pant legs dry. This level was soon exceeded. OK, above the knee was my new threshold but that did not last long either. My final threshold was crotch level. As you can see I also reached that threshold during trip #2 and finally decided to call it quits.
Photo courtesy of armyjunk.
Since high water levels in the tunnel resulted in unfinished business, a 3rd trip was necessary. In preparation for this I bought a good pair of rubber chest waders. The first two trips were in February when the climate in the Philippines is comfortable. It was still hot down there but not overly so. By the time trip #3 happened, it was April and the really hot time of the year had arrived. Manila temperature that day was 34.4C (94F). With humidity factored in it was over 40C (104F). In some areas of the tunnel, humidity was so high you could see it like a fog. My flashlight was like a Lightsaber cutting through the mist. Even the camera lens and my eyeglasses fogged up on occasion.
My Lightsaber.
Most of these fogged lens photos got deleted.
The good news this trip was that the water level had dropped over one foot since February but now the heat and humidity were issues. The fact that I was wearing chest waders which had no ventilation was like walking around in a big green rubber condom. To say I was sweating would be an understatement. Stashing a couple extra bottles of drinking water at key intersections turned out to be a good idea. Having said all this, I had a great time and ended up exploring all areas of the tunnel that can still be visited.
Inside the Fort Bonifacio Tunnel:
A short walk from the ritzy Market Market Shopping complex is the main entrance to the Fort Bonifacio Tunnel. Years ago the Philippine Army Museum and Library was located here before the construction of Bonifacio Global City forced it to relocate. Although there are plans to transform part of the tunnel into a tourist attraction, it now sits neglected with a sheet of steel covering the upper stairway.
Overview of the main tunnel entrance. (photo courtesy Google Earth)
Steel plate over the main entrance.
The upper set of steps at the main entrance.
From the main entrance you descend 17 steps to an intermediate level. Turn right 90 degrees and another 57 very steep steps later, you are standing at a “T” intersection. I do not know the angle of these 57 steps but one fall could possibly end your exploring days forever. Fortunately a rope handhold is in place. From here to the right, I will call the “central to East Rembo” section of tunnel. To the left, a further 16 more steps takes you down to the “central to Pembo” section of tunnel.
At the bottom of the first set of steps you can see the tunnel access hole we just came down through. The wire to the left is AC power for temporary lighting only installed when visitors are scheduled to visit the tunnel. There are about five large orange lights but they only illuminate the steep steps and a short section of lower tunnel. (Update: permanent ceiling lighting is currently being installed along the main passageway).
Turn right at this intermediate level and you see a doorway with a steep ceiling. You have to get closer to see the steps.
Two paces forward and here are the 57 steps down to the main tunnel. The rope at the left is probably a life saver.
The main tunnel floor is now in sight.
At the bottom looking up. The steps appear to come down out of the tunnel's ceiling. I am now standing at the “T” intersection.
The first section we will explore is to the right towards East Rembo.
At the bottom of the main entrance steps is this room. The front half of it is made of concrete and the rear half is dug into the rock. It is completely concrete lined.
Looking down at the front half of this room sticking out of the rock. For some reason a rectangular hole was cut into the roof.
Interior view of the room showing about half its size.
By the way, I won’t bother you with “room by room” views. There are many of them so here is just a sample.
Since this was not the Power Room, I wonder if all the conduits suggest its function was Comms.
Scrappers have been at work here in the past.
More scrappers work.
If the 1941 blueprint can be believed, this and the next few photos show the Dispensary, Hospital and Ward area. This is the room on the left.
Middle room.
Room on the right.
Each room has three interconnecting passageways.
The right side room is unique in that it has a large square shaft dug into the floor.
A closer look at the shaft.
One media video has a local “expert” saying ammunition was stored down there and an elevator brought it up when they wanted to fire on ships. Well, there are no metal anchors for supporting an elevator inside the shaft and more importantly, in the ceiling above it. Where were the guns located that were to fire on ships? How would they transport the heavy shells in here? This tunnel is far from Manila Bay.
Actually, there is no point to waste brain cells on such a ridiculous statement. This vertical shaft is exactly what people say it is; a well for drinking water. I have a very bright flashlight and can clearly see the bottom; there are no hidden side tunnels.
The bottom of the well.
Let’s continue a bit further along the main tunnel towards East Rembo. By now we are well past where the few lights at the main entrance were so it is very dark, if fact it is pitch black. (camera flash photos are deceiving). You walk between high concrete walls with your flashlight pointed down as you try to not trip over anything. Two strange sights can be easily overlooked here.
First, above the wall you might notice a piece of concrete that appears to be very out of place. The concrete looks relatively new and nothing like the rest of the concrete down here. It is smooth and rounded. I do not know what this is but I wonder if I am in the exact location where the tunnel sketch shows a “Proposed Upstair” to have been. The stairs is not visible anywhere else. Why the concrete? Did the construction of C5 access ramps break through to the tunnel and this is a patch or pillar? I can only guess.
Standing back, I took this photo from the opposite wall.
A closer view of this piece of concrete.
Second, if you teach yourself to occasionally stand still and just look around, you might be amazed at what you will discover as you take the time to let everything sink in. Hidden behind the high concrete wall is a section of carved rock wall that looks like a very short lateral. Why did they bother doing this? It may be nothing but perhaps it is. This is very close to the new looking concrete. Unfortunately I had exited the tunnel before I remembered to go back to check these two mysteries out. If anyone is back to this tunnel, get a boost up to the top of the wall and let us know if you see anything interesting.
Here the normally solid rock wall behind the concrete has a carved out section. Let your imagination play with this one.
The last corner before approaching the East Rembo tunnel entrance. Notice that there was also a concrete ceiling in the tunnel but half of it is missing now. Flooding starts here.
The room on the right was large enough to require extra concrete pillar support. The tunnel narrows out to the entrance.
Looking back from the opposite end of the large room.
The East Rembo tunnel entrance is directly ahead.
A partial metal gate and corrugated GI sheets block the entrance. A house sits just outside. The orange PVC pipe is either a sink drain or a sewage outlet. We assumed the worst and departed.
Heading back to the main “T” intersection.
Back at the bottom of the main entrance steps, let’s go have a look towards Pembo.
The main entrance steps from the surface are at the left in the photo. Now we will go down an additional 16 steps to continue along this section of tunnel.
Looking back up the steps.
Looking back up the steps.
This section of tunnel has many rooms and short laterals which generally agree with the 1990s sketch.
One thing I notice is that very little concrete was used here with the exception of the floor which has drainage gutters along both edges. Actually, a concrete floor runs all the way from the East Rembo entrance to the Amapola St. entrance. The walls and ceiling are carved rock with pick or chisel marks being visible almost everywhere. Some rooms are precisely cut with square edges. Even some trim was cut out of the rock at some locations.
It is not really noticeable but there obviously is a slope to this tunnel which would be for drainage purposes. Areas not far from the 16 steps were flooded in February but are now dry or less flooded. For this whole section of tunnel, water drained out the Amapola St. entrance. Since it is now blocked by the construction of a house in 2012 then this tunnel will never be completely dry again.
An example of chip marks in the rock made by hand tools.
Wet in February.
Dry in April.
Here are some views of the main passageway and rooms that you will see as you continue along the tunnel towards Pembo.
Note the neatly carved indentation in the rear wall.
They had electric lights in this area too.
The tunnel is flooded from here all the way to the Amapola St. entrance.
Just ahead on the right we will soon see what the 1990s sketch calls the “Adobe Stair”. It is a crude structure which contrasts with what we have seen so far. It consists of a shaft with steps cut into the rock ascending up to where we have a 90 degree turn to the left. Here the shaft continues up for another 10 feet or so to where the tunnel is collapsed. The size of the shaft allows for upright walking.
According to the sketch, the shaft made another 90 degree turn to the right then no more detail is shown. I can imagine this to be a later constructed emergency exit; perhaps incomplete. A secondary function may have been for extra ventilation. If ventilation was its primary purpose then I doubt it would have had two or more very sharp turns.
Approaching the “Adobe Stair”.
Entrance to the “Adobe Stair”.
Rough steps with a little drainage ditch down the side.
Looking up the lower section of the shaft. Due to the high humidity, the steps are wet and slippery. You can see fog further up the shaft.
This is as far as you can go up the “Adobe Stair”. The shaft is completely collapsed probably due to Market Market construction years ago.
Continuing on, the main tunnel soon makes a turn to the left.
Past the corner the tunnel straightens out again but now a very unusual feature is in sight. For some unexplained reason, someone has built a false concrete wall which effectively tapers the tunnel down to a narrow doorway. There are no words or numbers stenciled on it to help identify why this was constructed.
You can easily see the added concrete wall which tapers the tunnel to just a doorway.
Viewed from the opposite side, the tapering wall is very obvious and the original straight tunnel still exists. Also, note that this area has another “T” intersection. It leads to sections of tunnel which do not appear on the 1941 blueprint.
From here we will continue on toward the Amapola St. entrance. This part of the tunnel is long and straight with the only points of interest along the way being two laterals and one big notch into the rock.
The Amapola St. entrance is straight ahead. The water is very clear but getting much deeper.
Approaching the entrance.
Looking through the metal grating you can see a new hollow block wall which is part of the house constructed in 2012. This entrance is sealed forever now.
Back at the intersection where the tunnel is tapered, let’s go left to see more of what lies under Pembo. There is a lot more tunnel to explore yet.
Looking back at the “T” intersection, the back of the false wall tapering the other tunnel is in view. This is an April view as the water level has dropped since our previous trip.
The floor of the tunnel rises up a bit so the next stretch is not flooded. It is muddy and quite humid though.
I labeled this long hole at the edge of the ceiling as a possible air vent but I doubt it now. It is long and has some rocks partially blocking my view but it does go far into the rock.
Fuzzy photo due to my camera lens fogging up.
Here there is a slight drop in the level of the tunnel floor so flooding starts again. Note the fog below the ceiling.
Looking back at where we just came from.
Approaching another “T” intersection. The fog is getting thicker.
The main tunnel is straight ahead, let’s go left. This is the one that I counted off 190 paces as I waded back to the intersection. It appears to be longer than the sketch indicates.
138. After walking down this tunnel for a while, it starts to look like you are nearing the end of it. Actually It is just a narrow spot and it widens out again past this point.
There has been a little ceiling collapse here. In this and the next photo, notice how much the water level has dropped. It will never be completely dry though as the drainage path is blocked and another rainy season is fast approaching.
This tunnel ends in a full collapse.
A closer view of the collapse.
This blockage is not just the rest of the tunnel being full of dirt. The ceiling has given way and this is actually a collapse. Whether it occurred naturally or by outside construction work I cannot say. I expect there was an entrance just past this collapse but I cannot prove it.
At the collapse looking back towards the narrow part of the tunnel. Past there it is still quite a ways back to the “T” intersection.
Back at the “T” intersection, we will continue on straight ahead.
The tunnel floor rises again and we have a break from the flood water.
A short walk further and up a little incline, we come to another side tunnel on the left (yet another “T” intersection). Straight ahead you can barely make out a significant incline in the tunnel floor best described as a ramp. It raises the level of the tunnel roughly equivalent to the 16 step stairway we saw earlier. We will go there later.
As we turn left into this side tunnel, we see something in the distance that we have not seen since entering the main entrance…sunlight.
We are now at the Morning Glory St. tunnel entrance.
In June, 2012 this is what the entrance looked like. Since then, government officials in Pembo have been working towards opening the tunnel as a tourist attraction. The entrance has been cleared of garbage, silt and vegetation. New concrete makes the entrance safe and presentable plus a permanent gate will soon be added. As of now no date for allowing the general public to enter the tunnel has been finalized.
The entrance as seen in April, 2014.
A wider view of the Morning Glory St. entrance. The stairs lead up toward the C5 expressway.
It’s time to head back in and continue our trek. (February photo – no chest waders). We will go back to the intersection, turn left and walk up the ramp. (Photo courtesy of armyjunk)
Just past the top of the ramp you come to what appears to be an intersection. On the right is a little concave space dug into the rock going nowhere; the tunnel continues to the left.
We are now approaching the second flooded sewer area where the water level will soon be above my waist. Here the tunnel will become wide with high ceilings. One long rectangular room in particular is huge when compared to anything else in the tunnel. Walking here involves taking small steps to ensure solid footing before changing your weight from one foot to the other. Squishy silt (probably sludge) is on the floor and there are many obstacles which cannot be seen when looking down into the murky water. Getting dunked would not be a pleasant or healthy experience.
The start of “The Sewer”.
An intersection is ahead.
So far these tunnels have been very quiet with the exception of occasional dripping water. Somewhere in front of me I can hear a steady stream of water pouring down. This tunnel is large but wait until you see the next photo.
I am looking back at the tunnel I just came out of. This one is easily twice the size of the previous one. Note that there is no concrete lining here, the square edges you see are carved rock.
Looking to the right, other tunnels are in view but we will explore the tunnel on the left first.
The first thing we come to is a room on the left. In the upper right corner is the source of the stream of water.
It is difficult to see exactly but it appears that the water is running down from fractures in the ceiling rock and not a man-made pipe. Unlike at the East Rembo entrance, I think the sewer here is unintentional.
Further down the tunnel we can see that it transitions into a narrow arched shaft.
The tunnel is completely blocked.
I cannot see past the half-circle shaped piece of concrete. Here is a look under it. I suspect that an entrance was here too.
The view as we start back to the previous intersection.
Here we are at a 4-way intersection. To the left and right is the largest room in the whole tunnel system. Partially out of sight at the 10:00 position is another tunnel on the opposite side of the large room.
Looking left inside the large room.
Looking right in the large room. Near the end of the room, side and rear walls are 1/2 lined with thick concrete.
Closer view of the concrete lined section.
In the large room (right side) looking back toward the 4-way intersection. I entered from the left side tunnel and you can now see the opposite side tunnel.
In the large room (left side) looking back toward the 4-way intersection. I entered from the right side tunnel. The far end concrete wall is illuminated by my flashlight.
As we came into the large room, the left half of it looks like there is nothing of interest down there. The sketch, however, tells us there is a tunnel at the end. Let’s go have a look.
Approaching this end of the large room.
Sure enough, there is a tunnel here which, like the others, goes in the direction of Pembo.
Two notches are carved into the rock on each side of the tunnel for some unknown reason.
Ahead, it looks like another collapse.
It is a complete collapse here. Judging by the maps and tunnel shape, another entrance may be close by. That makes three possible sealed entrances along the hillside below the C5 expressway in Pembo.
Back at the 4-way intersection we still have another tunnel to check-out.
As I make my way down the tunnel it looks like another collapse in front of me.
A quick check at the top of the collapse tells me that this is the end of the line; the tunnel probably goes further but we cannot. If you note on the sketch, we are in a tunnel that runs in the opposite direction from Pembo. Interesting! With our task to explore this tunnel system complete, we may as well get out of here.
It seems that on the way into this tunnel I stirred up something from the bowels of the…whoops…poor choice of words!
In the middle of the 4-way intersection, the way out is straight ahead then to the left. Bye bye catacombs.
The end of “The Sewer”.
There you have it, the Fort Bonifacio Tunnel from end to end (or as much of it as we can still do).
In Part #1 of this report we saw exterior views of four tunnel entrances. In Part #2 we have just seen the same four entrances from the inside plus much more. For me, the sights along the way were well worth the effort.
You may be wondering, where do the additional four (collapsed) tunnel entrances appear on the outside? I tried to find them but did not have great luck. Two concrete structures have potential and (by using GPS) they are located where I expect them to be. However, I cannot positively identify them as former tunnel entrances as local residents either did not understand me or know nothing of the history there. The whole hillside below the C5 expressway is completely saturated with houses, narrow alleyways and walled compounds. I may be wrong but I am starting to wonder if recent media reports about squatters building at tunnel entrances is making people reluctant to talk to strangers.
This will give you an idea of what the hillside below the C5 in Pembo looks like. Unless a tunnel entrance is obvious then you will never find it without local help.
As for the other two collapsed entrances. One was said to have been bulldozed years ago but I did not discover where that was. The fourth one is a mystery but judging from the inside direction the tunnel was going before it collapsed, it is heading towards what was the Post Commander’s residence in Fort McKinley. That is not far away. Dr. Rico Jose of the University of the Philippines says that General Yamashita lived there during the Japanese occupation and text exists mentioning a tunnel below that house. Expressway and urban construction are hiding these structures well assuming any of them still exist.
Wandering around this old tunnel was the most fun I had in a long time. Many unknowns about its history and exact layout still exist but that makes it even more appealing. I hope the story does not end here.
I have decided to do something a little unusual in this report; I am going to omit detailed history of this tunnel. The reason is simple, not a lot of detail exists and what does exist often conflicts with other sources. For example, tunnel construction is said to have started in 1906, 1910, 1936 and 1941. Take your pick!
Also, I cannot find the source of widely quoted information stating that this tunnel is 2.24km long. It is said to run all the way to Villamor Airbase but a quick look at a map tells me that the Airbase is 4.5km away. Another article tells me that the tunnel goes all the way to Tunasan, Muntinlupa. That is over 18km away. An officer in the US Army Corp of Engineers, Wendell Fertig, oversaw major upgrades to the tunnel in 1941 but some of what he writes does not seem to agree with what I see inside the tunnel.
An example of media saying this tunnel is 2.24km long. (video capture courtesy GMA News TV)
Account of events which took place in 1941 - Wendell Fertig, US Army Corps of Engineers.
I can believe stories of a tunnel from Fort McKinley to the Pasig River, one in the area of Villamor Airbase and even others but talk that they all connect to this tunnel in Fort Bonifacio Global City seems very unlikely. Since I have little confidence in the accuracy of what I read, I won’t quote any more.
What I can show you with 100% certainty is what remains of this tunnel today. To date I have been down there on three occasions for a total of over four hours. Trip #1 was only for about twenty minutes and I did not take any photos. This report details trips #2 and #3.
Since Part #1 was posted, I came into possession of a 1941 document about this tunnel describing an upcoming bomb-proofing project.
Page 1
Page 2
Page 3
Blueprint of the tunnel (color reversed for better clarity)
In the 1990s, a section of this tunnel was open to the public as one of the Philippine Army Museum’s attractions. The museum was located along MacArthur Avenue beside the main tunnel entrance. I have been told that the following sketch was a handout given to people who chose to visit the tunnel.
Fort Bonifacio Tunnel Sketch
The 1941 documents are interesting in that they detail work to be undertaken but what is disappointing is how inaccurate the associated blueprint turned out to be. Usually official Army documents are our best source of information. I have not verified all the details on the 1990s sketch but it is by far the most accurate drawing of the tunnel system that we have. It is not just a matter of the 1990s sketch being more detailed; the blueprint shows rooms and laterals that do not exist. Apparently what the Army built differed from their original plans plus there is also talk that the tunnel was enlarged during the Japanese occupation. The only complaint I have about this sketch is that some proportions are not accurate. (i.e. the length of a lateral when compared to one beside it is not correct in some cases. The general shape is very good though). An exact “as built” plan of the tunnel may not exist and it appears that no one has bothered to create detailed records of what remains today.
Here is the same sketch with some notes added. I would suggest referring to it when viewing the following report. Not all points of interest are included as the sketch would be much more cluttered than it already is. I’ll start from the main entrance and go to East Rembo then cover the rest of the tunnel towards Pembo.
The Tunnel Today:
For some reason, this tunnel is larger than I expected which makes it even more fun. It’s almost like Manila’s version of ancient catacombs. To give you some idea as to the scale we are dealing with here, note the lateral on the sketch between the Amapola St. and Morning Glory St. laterals. Due to wading through water I was taking approximately ¾ sized paces. The number of paces from the main tunnel to the collapse was 190.
In several media videos shot inside the tunnel, the groups never stray far from the central to East Rembo section. Yes, parts of the tunnel towards Pembo are wet but that would not discourage any motivated explorer.
Thanks to Karl for posting his 2012 trip report down there (link). I don’t know why his group was told not to go further due to possible poor air quality. There is an open entrance ahead where fresh air can enter the tunnel unobstructed. Perhaps it was to just contain their explorations.
Construction of Bonifacio Global City including the C5 expressway access roads are all reported to have impacted the integrity of the tunnel. Even more recent urban construction is having an effect in that entrances are being sealed which results in lower passageways being flooded. Proper drainage has been disrupted. If there were other drainage methods then they must be blocked too.
I never noticed drill holes for explosives anywhere. This tunnel was ‘carved’ out of the rock and not blasted. Blasted tunnels are very rough and of random size but this one is smooth rock with squared edges; it looks very professional. In many places chip marks from tools such as chisels and picks are still visible.
Nowhere were there any signs of small arms fire. It appears that no battles took place inside although some areas do look to have been burned at some point in time.
Water ripples you see in many photos were created by us walking through it. With a couple exceptions we noted how clear the water was at least until we stirred up the silt. There is no question that two areas of this tunnel system are being used as a sewer by local residents. I was surprised that there was not much smell though. Maximum water depth in April was a little above waist level.
There are no birds, bats or lizards in the tunnel. Normally this is a bad sign however I did not notice any air quality issues anywhere. The only living creatures I saw inhabit the larger sewer area where hundreds of bugs line the walls and ceiling. They obviously have food to eat and we can guess what that is.
When the first flooded section of tunnel appeared before us, there was no way I was going to quit. The other two guys with me, Roger and Bert, felt the same. I took some valuables from my pockets such as money and IDs and put them in a passport style pouch that goes around my neck. I set a personal water-level threshold of below my knees to keep my rolled-up pant legs dry. This level was soon exceeded. OK, above the knee was my new threshold but that did not last long either. My final threshold was crotch level. As you can see I also reached that threshold during trip #2 and finally decided to call it quits.
Photo courtesy of armyjunk.
Since high water levels in the tunnel resulted in unfinished business, a 3rd trip was necessary. In preparation for this I bought a good pair of rubber chest waders. The first two trips were in February when the climate in the Philippines is comfortable. It was still hot down there but not overly so. By the time trip #3 happened, it was April and the really hot time of the year had arrived. Manila temperature that day was 34.4C (94F). With humidity factored in it was over 40C (104F). In some areas of the tunnel, humidity was so high you could see it like a fog. My flashlight was like a Lightsaber cutting through the mist. Even the camera lens and my eyeglasses fogged up on occasion.
My Lightsaber.
Most of these fogged lens photos got deleted.
The good news this trip was that the water level had dropped over one foot since February but now the heat and humidity were issues. The fact that I was wearing chest waders which had no ventilation was like walking around in a big green rubber condom. To say I was sweating would be an understatement. Stashing a couple extra bottles of drinking water at key intersections turned out to be a good idea. Having said all this, I had a great time and ended up exploring all areas of the tunnel that can still be visited.
Inside the Fort Bonifacio Tunnel:
A short walk from the ritzy Market Market Shopping complex is the main entrance to the Fort Bonifacio Tunnel. Years ago the Philippine Army Museum and Library was located here before the construction of Bonifacio Global City forced it to relocate. Although there are plans to transform part of the tunnel into a tourist attraction, it now sits neglected with a sheet of steel covering the upper stairway.
Overview of the main tunnel entrance. (photo courtesy Google Earth)
Steel plate over the main entrance.
The upper set of steps at the main entrance.
From the main entrance you descend 17 steps to an intermediate level. Turn right 90 degrees and another 57 very steep steps later, you are standing at a “T” intersection. I do not know the angle of these 57 steps but one fall could possibly end your exploring days forever. Fortunately a rope handhold is in place. From here to the right, I will call the “central to East Rembo” section of tunnel. To the left, a further 16 more steps takes you down to the “central to Pembo” section of tunnel.
At the bottom of the first set of steps you can see the tunnel access hole we just came down through. The wire to the left is AC power for temporary lighting only installed when visitors are scheduled to visit the tunnel. There are about five large orange lights but they only illuminate the steep steps and a short section of lower tunnel. (Update: permanent ceiling lighting is currently being installed along the main passageway).
Turn right at this intermediate level and you see a doorway with a steep ceiling. You have to get closer to see the steps.
Two paces forward and here are the 57 steps down to the main tunnel. The rope at the left is probably a life saver.
The main tunnel floor is now in sight.
At the bottom looking up. The steps appear to come down out of the tunnel's ceiling. I am now standing at the “T” intersection.
The first section we will explore is to the right towards East Rembo.
At the bottom of the main entrance steps is this room. The front half of it is made of concrete and the rear half is dug into the rock. It is completely concrete lined.
Looking down at the front half of this room sticking out of the rock. For some reason a rectangular hole was cut into the roof.
Interior view of the room showing about half its size.
By the way, I won’t bother you with “room by room” views. There are many of them so here is just a sample.
Since this was not the Power Room, I wonder if all the conduits suggest its function was Comms.
Scrappers have been at work here in the past.
More scrappers work.
If the 1941 blueprint can be believed, this and the next few photos show the Dispensary, Hospital and Ward area. This is the room on the left.
Middle room.
Room on the right.
Each room has three interconnecting passageways.
The right side room is unique in that it has a large square shaft dug into the floor.
A closer look at the shaft.
One media video has a local “expert” saying ammunition was stored down there and an elevator brought it up when they wanted to fire on ships. Well, there are no metal anchors for supporting an elevator inside the shaft and more importantly, in the ceiling above it. Where were the guns located that were to fire on ships? How would they transport the heavy shells in here? This tunnel is far from Manila Bay.
Actually, there is no point to waste brain cells on such a ridiculous statement. This vertical shaft is exactly what people say it is; a well for drinking water. I have a very bright flashlight and can clearly see the bottom; there are no hidden side tunnels.
The bottom of the well.
Let’s continue a bit further along the main tunnel towards East Rembo. By now we are well past where the few lights at the main entrance were so it is very dark, if fact it is pitch black. (camera flash photos are deceiving). You walk between high concrete walls with your flashlight pointed down as you try to not trip over anything. Two strange sights can be easily overlooked here.
First, above the wall you might notice a piece of concrete that appears to be very out of place. The concrete looks relatively new and nothing like the rest of the concrete down here. It is smooth and rounded. I do not know what this is but I wonder if I am in the exact location where the tunnel sketch shows a “Proposed Upstair” to have been. The stairs is not visible anywhere else. Why the concrete? Did the construction of C5 access ramps break through to the tunnel and this is a patch or pillar? I can only guess.
Standing back, I took this photo from the opposite wall.
A closer view of this piece of concrete.
Second, if you teach yourself to occasionally stand still and just look around, you might be amazed at what you will discover as you take the time to let everything sink in. Hidden behind the high concrete wall is a section of carved rock wall that looks like a very short lateral. Why did they bother doing this? It may be nothing but perhaps it is. This is very close to the new looking concrete. Unfortunately I had exited the tunnel before I remembered to go back to check these two mysteries out. If anyone is back to this tunnel, get a boost up to the top of the wall and let us know if you see anything interesting.
Here the normally solid rock wall behind the concrete has a carved out section. Let your imagination play with this one.
The last corner before approaching the East Rembo tunnel entrance. Notice that there was also a concrete ceiling in the tunnel but half of it is missing now. Flooding starts here.
The room on the right was large enough to require extra concrete pillar support. The tunnel narrows out to the entrance.
Looking back from the opposite end of the large room.
The East Rembo tunnel entrance is directly ahead.
A partial metal gate and corrugated GI sheets block the entrance. A house sits just outside. The orange PVC pipe is either a sink drain or a sewage outlet. We assumed the worst and departed.
Heading back to the main “T” intersection.
Back at the bottom of the main entrance steps, let’s go have a look towards Pembo.
The main entrance steps from the surface are at the left in the photo. Now we will go down an additional 16 steps to continue along this section of tunnel.
Looking back up the steps.
Looking back up the steps.
This section of tunnel has many rooms and short laterals which generally agree with the 1990s sketch.
One thing I notice is that very little concrete was used here with the exception of the floor which has drainage gutters along both edges. Actually, a concrete floor runs all the way from the East Rembo entrance to the Amapola St. entrance. The walls and ceiling are carved rock with pick or chisel marks being visible almost everywhere. Some rooms are precisely cut with square edges. Even some trim was cut out of the rock at some locations.
It is not really noticeable but there obviously is a slope to this tunnel which would be for drainage purposes. Areas not far from the 16 steps were flooded in February but are now dry or less flooded. For this whole section of tunnel, water drained out the Amapola St. entrance. Since it is now blocked by the construction of a house in 2012 then this tunnel will never be completely dry again.
An example of chip marks in the rock made by hand tools.
Wet in February.
Dry in April.
Here are some views of the main passageway and rooms that you will see as you continue along the tunnel towards Pembo.
Note the neatly carved indentation in the rear wall.
They had electric lights in this area too.
The tunnel is flooded from here all the way to the Amapola St. entrance.
Just ahead on the right we will soon see what the 1990s sketch calls the “Adobe Stair”. It is a crude structure which contrasts with what we have seen so far. It consists of a shaft with steps cut into the rock ascending up to where we have a 90 degree turn to the left. Here the shaft continues up for another 10 feet or so to where the tunnel is collapsed. The size of the shaft allows for upright walking.
According to the sketch, the shaft made another 90 degree turn to the right then no more detail is shown. I can imagine this to be a later constructed emergency exit; perhaps incomplete. A secondary function may have been for extra ventilation. If ventilation was its primary purpose then I doubt it would have had two or more very sharp turns.
Approaching the “Adobe Stair”.
Entrance to the “Adobe Stair”.
Rough steps with a little drainage ditch down the side.
Looking up the lower section of the shaft. Due to the high humidity, the steps are wet and slippery. You can see fog further up the shaft.
This is as far as you can go up the “Adobe Stair”. The shaft is completely collapsed probably due to Market Market construction years ago.
Continuing on, the main tunnel soon makes a turn to the left.
Past the corner the tunnel straightens out again but now a very unusual feature is in sight. For some unexplained reason, someone has built a false concrete wall which effectively tapers the tunnel down to a narrow doorway. There are no words or numbers stenciled on it to help identify why this was constructed.
You can easily see the added concrete wall which tapers the tunnel to just a doorway.
Viewed from the opposite side, the tapering wall is very obvious and the original straight tunnel still exists. Also, note that this area has another “T” intersection. It leads to sections of tunnel which do not appear on the 1941 blueprint.
From here we will continue on toward the Amapola St. entrance. This part of the tunnel is long and straight with the only points of interest along the way being two laterals and one big notch into the rock.
The Amapola St. entrance is straight ahead. The water is very clear but getting much deeper.
Approaching the entrance.
Looking through the metal grating you can see a new hollow block wall which is part of the house constructed in 2012. This entrance is sealed forever now.
Back at the intersection where the tunnel is tapered, let’s go left to see more of what lies under Pembo. There is a lot more tunnel to explore yet.
Looking back at the “T” intersection, the back of the false wall tapering the other tunnel is in view. This is an April view as the water level has dropped since our previous trip.
The floor of the tunnel rises up a bit so the next stretch is not flooded. It is muddy and quite humid though.
I labeled this long hole at the edge of the ceiling as a possible air vent but I doubt it now. It is long and has some rocks partially blocking my view but it does go far into the rock.
Fuzzy photo due to my camera lens fogging up.
Here there is a slight drop in the level of the tunnel floor so flooding starts again. Note the fog below the ceiling.
Looking back at where we just came from.
Approaching another “T” intersection. The fog is getting thicker.
The main tunnel is straight ahead, let’s go left. This is the one that I counted off 190 paces as I waded back to the intersection. It appears to be longer than the sketch indicates.
138. After walking down this tunnel for a while, it starts to look like you are nearing the end of it. Actually It is just a narrow spot and it widens out again past this point.
There has been a little ceiling collapse here. In this and the next photo, notice how much the water level has dropped. It will never be completely dry though as the drainage path is blocked and another rainy season is fast approaching.
This tunnel ends in a full collapse.
A closer view of the collapse.
This blockage is not just the rest of the tunnel being full of dirt. The ceiling has given way and this is actually a collapse. Whether it occurred naturally or by outside construction work I cannot say. I expect there was an entrance just past this collapse but I cannot prove it.
At the collapse looking back towards the narrow part of the tunnel. Past there it is still quite a ways back to the “T” intersection.
Back at the “T” intersection, we will continue on straight ahead.
The tunnel floor rises again and we have a break from the flood water.
A short walk further and up a little incline, we come to another side tunnel on the left (yet another “T” intersection). Straight ahead you can barely make out a significant incline in the tunnel floor best described as a ramp. It raises the level of the tunnel roughly equivalent to the 16 step stairway we saw earlier. We will go there later.
As we turn left into this side tunnel, we see something in the distance that we have not seen since entering the main entrance…sunlight.
We are now at the Morning Glory St. tunnel entrance.
In June, 2012 this is what the entrance looked like. Since then, government officials in Pembo have been working towards opening the tunnel as a tourist attraction. The entrance has been cleared of garbage, silt and vegetation. New concrete makes the entrance safe and presentable plus a permanent gate will soon be added. As of now no date for allowing the general public to enter the tunnel has been finalized.
The entrance as seen in April, 2014.
A wider view of the Morning Glory St. entrance. The stairs lead up toward the C5 expressway.
It’s time to head back in and continue our trek. (February photo – no chest waders). We will go back to the intersection, turn left and walk up the ramp. (Photo courtesy of armyjunk)
Just past the top of the ramp you come to what appears to be an intersection. On the right is a little concave space dug into the rock going nowhere; the tunnel continues to the left.
We are now approaching the second flooded sewer area where the water level will soon be above my waist. Here the tunnel will become wide with high ceilings. One long rectangular room in particular is huge when compared to anything else in the tunnel. Walking here involves taking small steps to ensure solid footing before changing your weight from one foot to the other. Squishy silt (probably sludge) is on the floor and there are many obstacles which cannot be seen when looking down into the murky water. Getting dunked would not be a pleasant or healthy experience.
The start of “The Sewer”.
An intersection is ahead.
So far these tunnels have been very quiet with the exception of occasional dripping water. Somewhere in front of me I can hear a steady stream of water pouring down. This tunnel is large but wait until you see the next photo.
I am looking back at the tunnel I just came out of. This one is easily twice the size of the previous one. Note that there is no concrete lining here, the square edges you see are carved rock.
Looking to the right, other tunnels are in view but we will explore the tunnel on the left first.
The first thing we come to is a room on the left. In the upper right corner is the source of the stream of water.
It is difficult to see exactly but it appears that the water is running down from fractures in the ceiling rock and not a man-made pipe. Unlike at the East Rembo entrance, I think the sewer here is unintentional.
Further down the tunnel we can see that it transitions into a narrow arched shaft.
The tunnel is completely blocked.
I cannot see past the half-circle shaped piece of concrete. Here is a look under it. I suspect that an entrance was here too.
The view as we start back to the previous intersection.
Here we are at a 4-way intersection. To the left and right is the largest room in the whole tunnel system. Partially out of sight at the 10:00 position is another tunnel on the opposite side of the large room.
Looking left inside the large room.
Looking right in the large room. Near the end of the room, side and rear walls are 1/2 lined with thick concrete.
Closer view of the concrete lined section.
In the large room (right side) looking back toward the 4-way intersection. I entered from the left side tunnel and you can now see the opposite side tunnel.
In the large room (left side) looking back toward the 4-way intersection. I entered from the right side tunnel. The far end concrete wall is illuminated by my flashlight.
As we came into the large room, the left half of it looks like there is nothing of interest down there. The sketch, however, tells us there is a tunnel at the end. Let’s go have a look.
Approaching this end of the large room.
Sure enough, there is a tunnel here which, like the others, goes in the direction of Pembo.
Two notches are carved into the rock on each side of the tunnel for some unknown reason.
Ahead, it looks like another collapse.
It is a complete collapse here. Judging by the maps and tunnel shape, another entrance may be close by. That makes three possible sealed entrances along the hillside below the C5 expressway in Pembo.
Back at the 4-way intersection we still have another tunnel to check-out.
As I make my way down the tunnel it looks like another collapse in front of me.
A quick check at the top of the collapse tells me that this is the end of the line; the tunnel probably goes further but we cannot. If you note on the sketch, we are in a tunnel that runs in the opposite direction from Pembo. Interesting! With our task to explore this tunnel system complete, we may as well get out of here.
It seems that on the way into this tunnel I stirred up something from the bowels of the…whoops…poor choice of words!
In the middle of the 4-way intersection, the way out is straight ahead then to the left. Bye bye catacombs.
The end of “The Sewer”.
There you have it, the Fort Bonifacio Tunnel from end to end (or as much of it as we can still do).
In Part #1 of this report we saw exterior views of four tunnel entrances. In Part #2 we have just seen the same four entrances from the inside plus much more. For me, the sights along the way were well worth the effort.
You may be wondering, where do the additional four (collapsed) tunnel entrances appear on the outside? I tried to find them but did not have great luck. Two concrete structures have potential and (by using GPS) they are located where I expect them to be. However, I cannot positively identify them as former tunnel entrances as local residents either did not understand me or know nothing of the history there. The whole hillside below the C5 expressway is completely saturated with houses, narrow alleyways and walled compounds. I may be wrong but I am starting to wonder if recent media reports about squatters building at tunnel entrances is making people reluctant to talk to strangers.
This will give you an idea of what the hillside below the C5 in Pembo looks like. Unless a tunnel entrance is obvious then you will never find it without local help.
As for the other two collapsed entrances. One was said to have been bulldozed years ago but I did not discover where that was. The fourth one is a mystery but judging from the inside direction the tunnel was going before it collapsed, it is heading towards what was the Post Commander’s residence in Fort McKinley. That is not far away. Dr. Rico Jose of the University of the Philippines says that General Yamashita lived there during the Japanese occupation and text exists mentioning a tunnel below that house. Expressway and urban construction are hiding these structures well assuming any of them still exist.
Wandering around this old tunnel was the most fun I had in a long time. Many unknowns about its history and exact layout still exist but that makes it even more appealing. I hope the story does not end here.